I am in Australia, so these table tops would cost me a small fortune to ship from the USA, so I decided to build my own. The following poker table plans on how to build a poker table should be used as a guide only. These poker table plans are copyright and can not be used on any other site without written authorization. You will learn how to build a casino poker table poker table using poker table felt and other poker table supplies.
A few searches later, I had seen about 10 other home built tables. I decided to build the rounded rectangle, the biggest table I could. I intended to build a table top only, one that I could store on its side in the garage when not in use, but could slot straight over the top of my dining table on game nights. I also chose to build my table with an exposed wooden section, which I call the “beer rail”.
You could build this project without the “beer rail” in a single day. There were 3 main stores I needed to visit for this project, a hardware store, a fabric store, and a foam supplier. I sourced the following building materials, fabric and foam, please note at the end of the project I discovered it may have been easier with slightly different measurements etc so read the final thoughts section for more info. I am going to build a “beer rail” so I started with a top sheet of ply wood. I started with a 1200mm wide sheet so I came in 600mm from the side and the ends to find the midpoint for my oval arc. I put a screw in at this point which I tied a string to. You can see one edge at the back is already cut off.
After cutting the curves off, I placed the top “template” over the bottom sheet of MDF. I traced around the table to make the peices fit evenly. Cut the 4 corners off the bottom sheet of MDF. You can also see in this picture that I have drawn two inner arcs. These are for the beer rail and the padded arm rail. Which leaves me with a 700mm wide felt covered playing area.
I have moved the bottom sheet of MDF to the side, its job is done until the final stage of my table. I have made ONE cut with the jigsaw to seperate the PADDED RAIL section. I have completed the second full cut now, leaving only the felt section behind. Make sure you drill on the felt section part for the jigsaw blade to go in. You do not want the beer rail to have any pilot hole marks in it, refer to TIP2. Trusty girlfriend starts staining my beer rail.
This is the second oval peice. Note we are staining the “good side” of the ply. Apply the stain with an old peice of cloth in a circular pattern. Even cheap ply wood comes up looking pretty good! While my assistant is applying the stain out side I am about to do the felt section. EVA foam and to the ply wood.
You can’t see the top layer of the ply so it looks like the EVA foam is more than half the thickness, but it is not. Trim the edges off with a pair of sharp scissors or Stanley knife. Lay out your felt, flip over your board and staple it on tight. I did this buy myself, getting a tight stretch with felt over 700mm was pretty easy, but you will need a hand doing the padded rail later.